From Planet to Plate: How India's culinary diversity can help you beat the heat and combat climate change
In We Are What We Eat, Alice Waters — a longtime advocate for universal access to healthy and organic foods and proprietor of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California — writes that every decision we make about what we put in our mouths affects not only our bodies, but also our families, our communities and our environment. Set up in 1971, Chez Panisse’s menu runs on the principle that food must be fresh and in season, grown locally, organically and sustainably. Waters’ words came to mind at a recent dinner event where India’s top chefs, such as Indian Accent's culinary director Manish Mehrotra and former ITC corporate chef Manjit Gill, slow-cooked nourishing and healthy dishes with indigenous ingredients. Also on the menu were their personal stories about India’s regional culinary traditions and local cultures. Each story underlined one message: our food choices must be sustainable in a climate-hit world. The event was part of the launch of Delhi-based Centre for Science and Environment’s (CSE) First Food: Future of Taste, the fourth book in the First Food series. The book is a primer on how to survive food shortages brought on by uncertainties in extreme weather events. It has 100-odd recipes from top chefs, food bloggers/influencers and food enthusiasts that include summer vegetable loaf with foxtail millet, vegetable paella made with kodo millet, as well as ragi srikhand cannoli and a sorghum sweet beverage. A common thread runs through the delightfully rich and varied local food traditions of different communities. Consumers must learn from traditional knowledge of local communities, who have, over centuries, experimented with weeds, tree-borne foods, seeds that can be stored for long periods, plants with short lifecycles, and even those parts of plants that are generally wasted to create healthy and nutritious recipes. ‘We need hardy foods to survive the climate-risked world. More importantly, we need knowledge about how to use them,’ says CSE director general Sunita Narain. ‘We must link with the idea of what is resilient. What is that food that is good for the farmer, good for nutrition and good for the environment.'
